Crete handles three kinds of holidaymaker at once and does not obviously shortchange any of them. Beach people get sand, history people get ruins older than most countries, and anyone who likes walking finds a mountain range in the middle of the island. I have used this short guide to decide where to sleep each time I have gone back, and it has never let me down.
Chania, the western hub
The main tourist harbour sits in the island's west: busy, noisy and mixed, with both natural and man-made sights within an hour's drive. Three destinations anchor the region, and I would not skip any of them: the island of Elafonisi with its pink sand, the White Mountains behind the town, and the Samaria Canyon for a full day of walking. Around the city itself:
- Agia Marina, a little resort village ringed by orange groves and beaches flying blue flags for clean water.
- Platanias, the lively resort where the sand is good for doing nothing and the bars open late.
- Paleochora, a quiet town with strong beaches, proper infrastructure and enough historical detail to fill a rainy afternoon.
- Elafonisi, an island reachable on foot at low tide, with pink-coral sand and water that looks unreal in photographs but looks the same in person.
- Chania town itself, where the architecture mixes Turkish and Venetian layers around a harbour that is worth a walk after dinner.
Rethymno, for a mixed week
Choose this region when you want variety: as much history as you can absorb, a proper immersion in Greek daily life, and a beach at the end of the street. The places locals and repeat visitors name first are:
- Bali, a lively village with sheltered coves, clear blue water and sand good enough to spend a whole day on.
- Agia Galini on the southern coast, which feels romantic even in broad daylight: white houses wound through with flowering plants, tall palms and streets that curve for no particular reason.
- Rethymno city, the regional capital, busy with festivals, concerts, exhibitions and fairs, with a picturesque waterfront and a nightlife scene that runs later than you would expect from a town this size.
Heraklion, the busy east
The capital region carries more sights than any visitor can absorb in a short stay, which is why most people base themselves here and day-trip. The towns nearby give you a choice of mood:
- Malia is the party address: bars, restaurants and clubs line the main street shoulder to shoulder, and the music starts before dinner.
- Hersonissos, equally busy, with the option to dance until dawn and then spend the next day horizontal on the sand, which suits younger and more energetic travellers.
- Heraklion city, for the Minoan palaces and the Venetian Loggia, plus the labyrinth associated with the Minotaur, churches, cathedrals and the foundations of ancient towns.
Lasithi, the expensive east end
The resort region locals consider the most upmarket on the island, and the prices match. It suits travellers who want a quieter week with good service, and the three bases are distinct:
- Agios Nikolaos, an elegant architectural town with a small island sitting in the lake at its centre.
- Elounda, the elite address, with the cleanest beaches, designer hotels and restaurants that need booking ahead.
- Ierapetra, the calmest of the three, with excellent beaches and people who come specifically for the local cooking and a slow pace.
The same region also holds two tiny villages, Myrtos and Episkopi, where time appears to have stopped: nothing but landscape, birdsong and a breeze that cools the evening. I liked ending a week there, away from the resort noise, before the ferry back.